Check, Prong & Eletric Collars - time for a re-think

What type of training collar are you using? Here is a quick review on popular types of training collars and what can go wrong with them when it comes to dog training. I urge everyone to start to think about the devices that they use on their dog - I have one simple criteria when it comes to training devices - would I be happy to use it on me???

Check Chains & Prong Collar: Check Chains can do cervical spin damage to your dog, the constant jerking to correct your dogs behaviour has essentially resulted in your dog having whiplash, they can also result in trachea damage. Prong Collars may result in injury to the back of the dogs neck, bruising, puncture wounds or lacerations.

The reason that these devices are often used on dogs considered wilful or stubborn. The issue is that when you go walking with your dog you are expecting it to behave at the same level as it does at home, when the dogs doesn’t, because it is over-stimulated and extremely distracted – possibly even pulling on the lead. You then jerk the chain – which may already be choking the dog, in an attempt to regain it’s attention. Inadvertently, however by pulling on the chain while your dog is excited you are actually increasing his stimulation towards things external to you. I would suggest that we start to work with your dog to firstly reduce the excitement that your dog is experiencing, which generally starts before you even get to the front door. Secondly, as dogs don’t generalise well, begin to add training, using a clicker and an extremely motivating reward to help your dog behave on cue in environments external to your home.

In reducing the excitement I would suggest a front clip harness, it takes the pressure away from the neck and redirects the dog back to you if it does pull. Before we even go for a walk however we have to begin the process of reducing the importance of the lead. For most dogs the only time they see a lead is when they are about to go for a walk – it becomes very exciting to them. So while supervising your dog begin to put on the harness and lead on for up to 1 minute without taking the dog for a walk. You can do this a few times a day – varying the time period for attaching the lead – this reduces the importance of the lead as a gateway to a walk.

Then begin to put in the process of loose lead walking by stoping when your dog begins to pull, turn in another direction – say to your dog “let’s go!” and begin walking in the new direction. This refocuses your dog and makes you unpredictable and therefore more interesting to your dog.

Now we can look at re-teaching your dog on the outside world what it already knows in your house. You can start in your back yard with little distraction, then moving to more and more distracting environments – remember to keep these sessions short and interesting. Overtime your dog can learn to remain calm and stress free by gradually opening it up to new life experiences. Best of all it is easy and fun, and there won’t be any damage to your dogs spin.

Electric Stimulus Collar: There seems to be two main reasons that people are using electric shock collars at the moment – for barking control or for containment to stop a dog running away. The biggest issue with using a positive punishment device like a shock collar is that your dog can associate the shock with what it is focused on, which may result in fear and/or aggression towards something it was originally just interested in. Both of these barking and containment are best dealt with first by management, and then by training.

Management involves creating an area for the dog to relax in, removing/minimising stimulation that creates the desire for the dog to bark or run away. This is really essential when there is no one at home to supervise the dog. Dogs sleep 18 – 20 hours a dog, generally this should be what they do when we are not at home. Giving them a relaxing space with little interruptions will enable your dog to do what comes naturally to it. During those 4 to 6 hours that your dog is awake, this is the time to entertain, physically and mentally exercise your dog. You can train your dog not to bark, by teaching it to speak on command, and then teaching it to be quite on command.

Some Tricks for your pooch!

Teach your dog to beg:

1: With your dog in front of you hold the target stick (or food lure) just above your dog's head. Any movement up towards the stick by your dog should be met with a "click and treat".

2: Now get your dog to reach up a little higher to touch the target stick. (Be patient and let your dog work in small steps and be generous with your rewards)

3: Continue to do the same but delay the "click" for a second or two. From this step you require your dog to be seated and raise it’s front legs (in a good beg position).

4: It is now time to add the verbal cue word. Say the cue word a just before presenting the target stick/lure to your dog. Repetitions this will build an association in your dog's mind between you saying "Beg" and the act of getting into the beg position.

5: Then you reduce your reliance on the target stick by "fading" it. We do this by taking it in and out quicker (instead of leaving it there for your dog to touch) and also by gradually shortening the stick until it eventually disappears into your hand. This step can take a while so keep practising until the target stick is not needed - you can still guide or lure your dog with your hand if need be.

6: The aim is to rely solely on our verbal "Beg" cue/hand signal to get into the "Beg" or "Sit-Up" position.

Trouble shooting

Many dogs try to stand up on their back legs instead of rocking back on their haunches when learning the Beg dog trick. If this happens to you simply lower the target stick or food lure and also ensure that your dog starts from a sitting position rather than standing on all fours.

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Teach your dog to Spin:

1: With your dog in front of you, hold the target/ lure at your dog's eye level. Move the stick just to the left of your dog's nose. When your dog makes a movement towards the target stick you should immediately click and treat your dog.

2: Move the target stick from your dog's nose around to the side of his/her body. Your dog should follow the target/lure 90 degees to the side at which time you click and treat.

3: As with point 2 but now take the target stick from your dog's nose right around 180 degrees (half a full spin).

4: Now guide your target stick around a full 360 degree rotation

5: Now ask for 2 or 3 spins and only click and treat faster, tighter spins. Withhold your click and treat for slower spins.

6: Add your cue word or label for the behavior.

7: Phase out the use of the target stick (see "Beg" trick for example).

Trouble shooting

If your dog tries to back away rather than spin when you first start out, you can move your training session into the corner of the room or against a wall.

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Teach your dog to Shake:

1: Try to get the dog to move it’s paw by lightly tapping his leg or patting the floor in front of it. Even a slight movement of the paw is worthy of a click and treat at this stage. You should "click" as your dog's paw begins to show any sign of movement. Work in small steps until your dogs foot is at the required height!

2: Add the cue word to it.

3: Fade the clicker and the treats.

Trouble shooting

If your dog is not lifting it's leg –

With your willing dog sitting in front of you from the top of the shoulder “tickle” gently down the dogs legs, as you approach the foot the leg should raise, click and treat. (Don't grab your dog's foot - it should raise by itself).

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The next step from the Shake - the Wave:

1.Start with the shake steps above, then hold off on the click, this should encourage your dog to lift it’s leg higher (you should shape the height by taking the raise in small steps). Don't expect your dog to get the full wave height in one go!
2. You guessed it - add the cue!

Trouble shooting:

If your dog doesn’t hold it's leg up: try for smaller steps in the shaping (remember: patience and generosity!)